Lifestyle
Momofuku Ko is history — but long live Kabawa. Neither the flavors nor pretensions of David Chang’s fabled, impossible-to-get-into restaurant lives on at its successor. Kabawa is the first new venue from his Momofuku empire since Chang began closing most of his sit-down places two years ago and turned his attention to branding and consumer products. But the place where Momofuku Ko served its last uni with chickpea hozon recalls Ko’s restless, risk-taking spirit, even though its menu is Caribbean, not Asian, and served in a mere three courses compared with Ko’s 10. The room, on weirdly named Extra Place in the East Village,…
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