Each year around Chinese New Year, Khoon Hooi releases a new series of qipaos. They are subtly modernised – softer in construction, recalibrated in proportion, sometimes rendered in unexpected fabrics – designed to entice a younger generation.
“Some feel the qipao is something only their mum or grandma would wear,” he acknowledged.
With its high collar and precise lines, the traditional qipao can feel formal, even intimidating. Yet Lee considers it “the most beautiful version” of the dress. Rather than dismantle the silhouette, he refines it – preserving its essence while easing it into contemporary wardrobes.
Some of his earliest clients once resisted the qipao in their twenties. Today, many return for his updated interpretations.
“That makes me very happy,” he said. “It means they’ve grown into it.”
A NATURAL FIT IN THE MIDDLE EAST
Khoon Hooi’s expansion into the Middle East was not initially strategic. When Lee began showing overseas, buyers from the region gravitated toward his collections.
“Our aesthetic and fabrics probably appealed to them more than what some Western designers were offering,” he reflected.
The alignment makes sense. In a region where weddings unfold over several days and festive gatherings are marked by ceremonial dressing, occasion wear is not niche – it is essential.
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