Bridge closure the final straw as acclaimed East Fremantle restaurant closes its doors

It’s not a goodbye, it’s a “see you later”.

This is what Young George owners Melissa Palinkas and Susan Whelan are saying as they prepare to close the doors on their decade-long East Fremantle venture on April 2.

Days after winning their second star at the WA Good Food Guide awards – and after Good Food critic Max Veenhuyzen awarded the eatery a hat in his review at the weekend – the duo announced on social media that Young George had reached the end of its journey after an “incredibly difficult few years”.

Whelan told this masthead there wasn’t a particular moment that forced the couple’s hand, but the cost-of-living crisis and Fremantle Traffic Bridge closure were the final straws.

“Because we have very cyclical trade, outside of December, summer is not our best time because people in Freo want to be by the water, or they want to have barbecues … but we always thrive in wintertime,” Whelan said.

“So we have this cycle, and it’s been the same pretty much for 10 years.

“But this is the quietest March I’ve ever seen. Like, we just had a week of trade last week and for lunches there were two [sales].”

Palinkas said the decision almost made itself.

“When it’s a constant hit after hit, you just have to make the decision,” she said.

“We just had to put our hands up and say, ‘Look, we can’t continue like this’.”

Good memories and a full trophy cabinet

Young George has racked up a series of accolades in their 11 years on George Street, and even more fond memories.

“I’d say [one of my favourite memories] was when we first got our first chef’s hat in 2020,” Palinkas said.

“We strived and strived and strived to get one.

“Getting that accolade was probably a very big high point. And Maggie Beer was there … so we were kind of a bit starstruck for that.”

Palinkas also recalls a moment, two years after opening, when she realised the business was a hit.

“I just remember one night standing on the pass and looking out at the place, and it was packed. I just thought, ‘What have we created here? This is crazy’,” she said.

In 2019, Palinkas won the WA Good Food Guide’s Chef of the Year, and in 2020 she took home Mentor of the Year.

“We just got our second WA Good Food Guide hat on Saturday. We were just very blown away that people still recognise what we do after 10 years,” she said.

‘George Street needs some love’

From COVID-19 to the cancellation of the George Street Festival, Young George has been on the strip through it all.

“The street itself has seen, over the last 10 years, a lot of change,” Whelan said.

“It’s been up and down, and we’ve seen businesses open and close. George Street needs some love, it needs some proper attention.

“It’s nothing like it used to be. It used to be such a hustle-bustle, really great vibe on the street.”

Whelan said the closure of the Fremantle Traffic Bridge had reduced the flow of foot traffic to East Fremantle to minimal amounts.

“It actually said on the variable message board the other day, ‘Avoid the area’. They’re literally telling people not to come here,” she said.

Other George Street businesses have also lamented the struggles they’ve faced since the closure of the bridge.

‘See you later’

The decision to close might have only taken two weeks, but the couple wanted their loyal customers to know they would be missed the most.

“I’m going to miss our regular locals. I’m going to really miss not having that connection with the customers anymore,” Palinkas said.

“I think the gift of this place was we made amazing friends that were just customers, and then we’ve ended up being friends for life. And as a chef, it’s given me everything.”

But Palinkas and Whelan don’t plan on being gone from WA’s food industry forever.

“It’s definitely not a goodbye. I have so many things that I want to do,” Palinkas said.

“It’s just a goodbye to George Street for now, but I have definitely got some things in the pipeline.

“I’ve been going to Mexico a bit, so there might be something around the Mexican theme, maybe.”

Young George will be open for service until April 2.

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